the way
i’m approaching two months on the job as sous chef, and while things are going well, i’m engaged in a personal struggle to be the person that i wanted to be my boss when i was coming up. to be blunt, that person wasn’t an asshole, cared about both food and people, and avoided hypocrisy like bullets in the matrix. i’ve been exposed to all kinds of bosses, each with strengths and weaknesses, and i’d be a fool to think that i’m no different, so in order to figure out what i’m okay at and what needs working on, i’ve had to become extremely self aware.
people are watching, always. young, impressionable minds are constantly nearby, sensitive to the way i do things and the way i say things. this has been enlightening, primarily in the way that i now understand why the “asshole” chef exists: it’s easier than being patient. patience with people is different than it is with a braise or other culinary pursuits, because of the dynamic nature of people and their relationships. i’ve been in kitchens that were generally dismissive of an individual’s needs, letting them toil away in mediocrity, and other places where people would be bullied into quitting. i’ve caught myself leaning in that direction, and i need to stay far away from that territory. it’s managerial laziness, and genuinely unfair. a manager’s job is to manage, even in a kitchen, and though i long for the fantasy based version of the job that revolves solely around food and cooking, it just isn’t that way. it’s my job to give my team the tools they need to become better. conversely, it isn’t my job to eliminate weak links by cutting them out of the chain. i’m there to fix them; fixing people is difficult, but not impossible.
i’ve discovered this task to be exhausting, mostly because it requires more time and effort than you think it will when you reach out. small corrections sometimes take weeks to be completed, while larger, more complicated issues, take weeks or months. everyone responds differently to the learning process, too, so comparing cook A to cook B is futile. it’s my job to figure out when we’ve hit a wall. from there, it’s up to me and those above me to figure out the next plan of attack.
i always imagined the job to be all about the food, but i spend most of my time thinking about people and the things they do to the food. if it sounds like a venting session, it isn’t, i’m just surprised by the job and its challenges. i’m genuinely stimulated by my work right now, and it suits my natural inclination to find a better way for everything. it’s nice to be in a position where i can actually try to make it happen, for myself, and the people that i work with.

the way

i’m approaching two months on the job as sous chef, and while things are going well, i’m engaged in a personal struggle to be the person that i wanted to be my boss when i was coming up. to be blunt, that person wasn’t an asshole, cared about both food and people, and avoided hypocrisy like bullets in the matrix. i’ve been exposed to all kinds of bosses, each with strengths and weaknesses, and i’d be a fool to think that i’m no different, so in order to figure out what i’m okay at and what needs working on, i’ve had to become extremely self aware.

people are watching, always. young, impressionable minds are constantly nearby, sensitive to the way i do things and the way i say things. this has been enlightening, primarily in the way that i now understand why the “asshole” chef exists: it’s easier than being patient. patience with people is different than it is with a braise or other culinary pursuits, because of the dynamic nature of people and their relationships. i’ve been in kitchens that were generally dismissive of an individual’s needs, letting them toil away in mediocrity, and other places where people would be bullied into quitting. i’ve caught myself leaning in that direction, and i need to stay far away from that territory. it’s managerial laziness, and genuinely unfair. a manager’s job is to manage, even in a kitchen, and though i long for the fantasy based version of the job that revolves solely around food and cooking, it just isn’t that way. it’s my job to give my team the tools they need to become better. conversely, it isn’t my job to eliminate weak links by cutting them out of the chain. i’m there to fix them; fixing people is difficult, but not impossible.

i’ve discovered this task to be exhausting, mostly because it requires more time and effort than you think it will when you reach out. small corrections sometimes take weeks to be completed, while larger, more complicated issues, take weeks or months. everyone responds differently to the learning process, too, so comparing cook A to cook B is futile. it’s my job to figure out when we’ve hit a wall. from there, it’s up to me and those above me to figure out the next plan of attack.

i always imagined the job to be all about the food, but i spend most of my time thinking about people and the things they do to the food. if it sounds like a venting session, it isn’t, i’m just surprised by the job and its challenges. i’m genuinely stimulated by my work right now, and it suits my natural inclination to find a better way for everything. it’s nice to be in a position where i can actually try to make it happen, for myself, and the people that i work with.

my weird year
this year’s most recurring theme on the peach has to be my confusion with my personal trajectory. i had very different ideas for myself one year ago than i do now. for starters, i was done with professional cooking. i’d set new years eve as my final day ever behind the stoves, and then went about student life and all the crap that goes with it. three days into january i had accepted a part time job cooking asian street food. after all, it made the most sense financially to get paid as much as possible while hitting the books. the first few months of my new journey were spent going through the first two stages of grief: a bit of denial, and plenty of anger.
i felt angry about the way i was treated as i left the old job - my work was instantly subject to a different kind of scrutiny once i had given 6 weeks notice. if i made a mistake, it wasn’t a human one, it was the failings of a burnt out line cook that simply didn’t care to do things right. perception is everything, and i suppose it’s natural to push away something that either appears poisonous, or doesn’t want to be a part of your team any longer. it’s an emotional thing to work in a kitchen, even more so to run one. to leave one can be the most emotional thing, and feelings are often hurt. mine were hurt, definitely, and i probably hurt theirs. over the course of a year i had transitioned from a knowledge hungry and enthusiastic line cook, to an embittered and spiteful one. when i started to be treated like one, it exasperated an already substantial problem. i should have quit the day i gave 6 weeks notice, or just toughed it out. it probably would have been fine either way.
working in a casual place while going to school was probably a bad idea. it kept me anchored to an industry that i was dying to escape. if you can believe it to be true, i was, as a line cook, hooked on the money. more believably, i was hooked on the work. the most important thing about this time was that i was working with people who cared about people more than about food. that isn’t to say that food didn’t count, but it wasn’t everything, and the team was well bonded when i walked in, and remains that way now that i’m long gone. atmosphere contributes to the product, as i had always suspected. i also became painfully aware that things aren’t always better somewhere else, but just different, and that at certain stages in life, it takes a very specific kind of different to be just right. when i started in victoria, the restaurant i worked in was perfect for me. when i was tired and sad, the casual asian place was ideal. i did well in school and did enough to get by at work, and by may i was on my way back to vancouver.
the plan was to get into sfu and plug away at a communications degree. i had been accepted, but in order to enter in a comfortable way, i told myself that i should make a little bit of money before jumping headlong into a four year program. it made sense then, that i try my hand at cooking in hotels. i knew only what i had heard according to kitchen lore: the cooks in hotels are highly paid and under worked, the exact formula i was looking for. given my mental state, i thought that i could deal with the shortcomings of institutional cooking. i endured a foolishly long interview/hiring process only to discover that, even as a wounded and hate filled cook, that i cared too much about the craft to use it in a way that went against my personal constitution. i’ve written at length about the specifics, but it was approximately here that i knew that i wasn’t all the way finished with cooking properly. i quit, for the first time in my life, without having a plan for afterwards.
craigslist is a mixed bag of bullshit cook jobs, but it is the way i usually find my way into a good job. word of mouth is good too, but i barely knew anyone in the city and was being really passive about my search. this passivity manifested in lethargy and a general uselessness that probably didn’t do much in the way of impressing my girlfriend. that was the lowest of the lows or the peak of the shit heap, depending on how you look at it. and then i found an ad from my current employer, so i sent a resume in and very quickly found myself having a chat with the executive chef of the company, as well as one of the chefs de cuisine. interviews are a funny thing; it’s usually two way sales pitch with each side explaining their own virtues and desires. i did little to oversell myself and tried to be both candid and honest about my goals. i said i would choose writer over chef, any day of the week, and that a life in the industry was not my ultimate goal. i thought i presented myself as a written off amc pacer, but apparently they saw something of worth that just needed a bit of help to get back on the right path. i did some work in a couple of the kitchen, and ultimately had the choice of where i would work. i took the job that did the least to disrupt the life i was hoping to have; full time days in a small restaurant with a small staff of nice and talented people. it was the smartest thing that i could have done, and perhaps the most important decision i have made in my cooking career. it didn’t feel like it at the time, but it was.
i wasn’t hoping for easy, i just knew that i couldn’t handle crazy. the night shift is home to the latter in most kitchens, and if i had signed up for it right away, i’d be getting ready for my second semester at sfu. no question. i did get a taste of the crazy though, but more importantly, i found that there are people out there that cope with it the same way i do. a dinner rush was challenging and pressured, but calm and organized. i kept expecting something to crack, but it never did. this was encouraging. i had given up on the possibility of this kind of environment coexisting with good food, yet there it was.
by the end of the first month i was postponing my education indefinitely, deciding instead to stay put and see what happens. after spending the first part of the year twirling about in a state of confused panic, i felt it would be better just to stay grounded and assess the situation from a sturdy place. then it all started to come back. the bitterness loosened its grip on me, and i quickly found myself approaching the job with passion as opposed to reluctance. opportunities for creativity were presenting themselves on a regular basis, something i hadn’t been faced with in years, so i jumped on it. things were going well. really well. and it was just when i was planning on telling the powers that be that i’d be interested in something more than a line cooking job that they approached me. there wasn’t any discussion of where, and the when was pretty vague. two months later, things became pretty clear.
a chat with the bosses in late november resulted in one of those “impossible to refuse” offers; a sous chef job at the largest restaurant in the company. i had been over this situation in my mind dozens of times in my career, but the actual experience was much less celebratory and more solemn than i had imagined. i knew, immediately, that what was coming was going to be much harder than being a line cook. i also knew that i was ready to take it on, so i did, and i am.
with one full month of the job behind me, i’ve already experienced the restaurant at its busiest and craziest. there have been 7 and 8 day stretches, complete with 14 hour days, and now i’m on the last day of a 5 day mini vacation. it all feels so unlikely, but i’ve come to expect that from life. the opportunity at hand is so good that i don’t feel wistful towards the path i am now leaving behind.
it has been a weird, but good, year.

my weird year

this year’s most recurring theme on the peach has to be my confusion with my personal trajectory. i had very different ideas for myself one year ago than i do now. for starters, i was done with professional cooking. i’d set new years eve as my final day ever behind the stoves, and then went about student life and all the crap that goes with it. three days into january i had accepted a part time job cooking asian street food. after all, it made the most sense financially to get paid as much as possible while hitting the books. the first few months of my new journey were spent going through the first two stages of grief: a bit of denial, and plenty of anger.

i felt angry about the way i was treated as i left the old job - my work was instantly subject to a different kind of scrutiny once i had given 6 weeks notice. if i made a mistake, it wasn’t a human one, it was the failings of a burnt out line cook that simply didn’t care to do things right. perception is everything, and i suppose it’s natural to push away something that either appears poisonous, or doesn’t want to be a part of your team any longer. it’s an emotional thing to work in a kitchen, even more so to run one. to leave one can be the most emotional thing, and feelings are often hurt. mine were hurt, definitely, and i probably hurt theirs. over the course of a year i had transitioned from a knowledge hungry and enthusiastic line cook, to an embittered and spiteful one. when i started to be treated like one, it exasperated an already substantial problem. i should have quit the day i gave 6 weeks notice, or just toughed it out. it probably would have been fine either way.

working in a casual place while going to school was probably a bad idea. it kept me anchored to an industry that i was dying to escape. if you can believe it to be true, i was, as a line cook, hooked on the money. more believably, i was hooked on the work. the most important thing about this time was that i was working with people who cared about people more than about food. that isn’t to say that food didn’t count, but it wasn’t everything, and the team was well bonded when i walked in, and remains that way now that i’m long gone. atmosphere contributes to the product, as i had always suspected. i also became painfully aware that things aren’t always better somewhere else, but just different, and that at certain stages in life, it takes a very specific kind of different to be just right. when i started in victoria, the restaurant i worked in was perfect for me. when i was tired and sad, the casual asian place was ideal. i did well in school and did enough to get by at work, and by may i was on my way back to vancouver.

the plan was to get into sfu and plug away at a communications degree. i had been accepted, but in order to enter in a comfortable way, i told myself that i should make a little bit of money before jumping headlong into a four year program. it made sense then, that i try my hand at cooking in hotels. i knew only what i had heard according to kitchen lore: the cooks in hotels are highly paid and under worked, the exact formula i was looking for. given my mental state, i thought that i could deal with the shortcomings of institutional cooking. i endured a foolishly long interview/hiring process only to discover that, even as a wounded and hate filled cook, that i cared too much about the craft to use it in a way that went against my personal constitution. i’ve written at length about the specifics, but it was approximately here that i knew that i wasn’t all the way finished with cooking properly. i quit, for the first time in my life, without having a plan for afterwards.

craigslist is a mixed bag of bullshit cook jobs, but it is the way i usually find my way into a good job. word of mouth is good too, but i barely knew anyone in the city and was being really passive about my search. this passivity manifested in lethargy and a general uselessness that probably didn’t do much in the way of impressing my girlfriend. that was the lowest of the lows or the peak of the shit heap, depending on how you look at it. and then i found an ad from my current employer, so i sent a resume in and very quickly found myself having a chat with the executive chef of the company, as well as one of the chefs de cuisine. interviews are a funny thing; it’s usually two way sales pitch with each side explaining their own virtues and desires. i did little to oversell myself and tried to be both candid and honest about my goals. i said i would choose writer over chef, any day of the week, and that a life in the industry was not my ultimate goal. i thought i presented myself as a written off amc pacer, but apparently they saw something of worth that just needed a bit of help to get back on the right path. i did some work in a couple of the kitchen, and ultimately had the choice of where i would work. i took the job that did the least to disrupt the life i was hoping to have; full time days in a small restaurant with a small staff of nice and talented people. it was the smartest thing that i could have done, and perhaps the most important decision i have made in my cooking career. it didn’t feel like it at the time, but it was.

i wasn’t hoping for easy, i just knew that i couldn’t handle crazy. the night shift is home to the latter in most kitchens, and if i had signed up for it right away, i’d be getting ready for my second semester at sfu. no question. i did get a taste of the crazy though, but more importantly, i found that there are people out there that cope with it the same way i do. a dinner rush was challenging and pressured, but calm and organized. i kept expecting something to crack, but it never did. this was encouraging. i had given up on the possibility of this kind of environment coexisting with good food, yet there it was.

by the end of the first month i was postponing my education indefinitely, deciding instead to stay put and see what happens. after spending the first part of the year twirling about in a state of confused panic, i felt it would be better just to stay grounded and assess the situation from a sturdy place. then it all started to come back. the bitterness loosened its grip on me, and i quickly found myself approaching the job with passion as opposed to reluctance. opportunities for creativity were presenting themselves on a regular basis, something i hadn’t been faced with in years, so i jumped on it. things were going well. really well. and it was just when i was planning on telling the powers that be that i’d be interested in something more than a line cooking job that they approached me. there wasn’t any discussion of where, and the when was pretty vague. two months later, things became pretty clear.

a chat with the bosses in late november resulted in one of those “impossible to refuse” offers; a sous chef job at the largest restaurant in the company. i had been over this situation in my mind dozens of times in my career, but the actual experience was much less celebratory and more solemn than i had imagined. i knew, immediately, that what was coming was going to be much harder than being a line cook. i also knew that i was ready to take it on, so i did, and i am.

with one full month of the job behind me, i’ve already experienced the restaurant at its busiest and craziest. there have been 7 and 8 day stretches, complete with 14 hour days, and now i’m on the last day of a 5 day mini vacation. it all feels so unlikely, but i’ve come to expect that from life. the opportunity at hand is so good that i don’t feel wistful towards the path i am now leaving behind.

it has been a weird, but good, year.

the top ten new musics of 2011 in alphabetical order

colin stetson - new history warfare vol. 2: i’m unafraid to admit that other people know more about certain things that i do, though it wasn’t always this way. so, when a former boss of mine extolled the virtues of “jazz”, i started sampling around hesitantly. i latch onto brass, and lean towards melody, but this guy absolutely mangles the saxophone. i used to listen to music for one reason, the hooks, but these days i’m finding other reasons to put a pair of headphones. this shit is genuinely exciting, because i’ve never heard anything like it. and… he’s kinda canadian, if that matters.

http://youtu.be/HKcilfL2aFc

chad van gaalen - diaper island: this guy is completely canadian, and had his fingers in the production of two albums by women, the best thing to ever come from alberta. you can hear their influence on him, this time around, and the resulting album is definitely his best. there’s a song called shave my pussy. that’s it. that’s real.

http://youtu.be/hKHD6INztfA

charles bradley - no time for dreaming: i used to have zero patience for old music. i also used to be an idiot. while my status as a reformed idiot is debatable, what is not is that old music is important. this kinda falls into the old/new category, because this guy is somewhere between 50 and 60, and laid down some serious soul vocals on top of some tunes provided by menahan street band. there is something to be said about a weathered man singing about hard times with a voice so strained you can’t help but believe him.

http://youtu.be/0bbgHTdSPJ4

james blake - self titled: this isn’t the kind of music a younger me would have thought older me would be into, but it is. it’s melancholy, sure, but is sonically unique. the heavily electronic musicianship stutters and swells behind an oddly auto-tuned falsetto of a young british man. this is a record about sound. you don’t need to speak the language to know he’s a little bit sad. my girlfriend is wrong about this album. actually, was. she recently admitted i was right about it.

http://youtu.be/MVgEaDemxjc

javelin - canyon candy: it’s a short but sweet sample driven record that came out of the blue. it’s western and electronic, dusty and moody as anything i’ve ever heard. music heavy on samples often rides the coattails of a preexisting nostalgia; this album manages to create an image of a past that i wish existed for myself. an electro western for robot john wayne.

http://youtu.be/mMGBZJ4Q0zo

kurt vile - smoke ring for my halo: if i had to pick a representative for the direction i hope rock n roll moves in, this guy would be the guy. it’s guitar forward music that interlopes between folk and grungy goodness. it sounds pretty when he wants it to, and sludgy when he doesn’t. everything feels intentional and crafted, without sounding anal retentive, y’know?

http://youtu.be/F1VmLdZvUlo

m83 - hurry up we’re dreaming: i wasn’t ready for this jelly a few years ago. it takes a certain amount of comfort with oneself to listen to the glammy synth stuff mostly appropriate for coming of age 80’s movies. i’m over the hump, so to speak, and really get down with this. it’s better loud. it’s prettier loud, too. that’s rare.

http://youtu.be/dX3k_QDnzHE

tinariwen - tassili: when you get beyond the surface of jazz, you can’t help but find a bunch of interesting african music. these guys have been around for a while, and i’ve only just found them. a friend told me they existed. he didn’t tell me exactly how rad they are. it’s soothing and bleak at the same time

http://youtu.be/iorfsFAJJsI

wilco - the whole love: saturday night live isn’t always funny, though it tries, but it often plays host to some pretty talented groups. wilco didn’t make sense to me until a few years ago when they were playing snl in promotion of sky blue sky. it was then that i learned that wilco could really fucking play, and they don’t really hide that fact on their newest album. i’m going to see them in the new year, if the world still exists by then. 

http://youtu.be/yWP4bI37mCE

yellow ostrich - the mistress: the dodos did for me a few years ago what yellow ostrich did for me earlier this year: surprise me. they take the standard arrangement of percussion, guitars, and vocals, and go ahead and make it sound fresh. it’s rythmic and classically melodic, with perhaps the most creative use of harmony i’ve heard in ages. it would be easy to dismiss these guys as the authors of typical indie stuff, but they are clearly tapped into something deeper. try it.

http://youtu.be/D1KCsOT1VaM

christmas

christmas day is the one day that most people around these parts agree that it’s okay to unwind, and for that reason i love christmas. hustle breeds hustle to the point where people feel guilty when they aren’t, even if they are justifiably exhausted. my brethren in the service industry deserve a day or two to kick back and not have to worry about a restaurant and its patrons. the month of december is a bit of a nightmare in terms of being stretched to and beyond personal limits of handling pressure, so i can’t say i enjoy the days leading up to christmas and new years so much, and instead prefer to  set my sights on january. by january the world will have reset itself, and the frenzied behaviour of the masses will have curtailed in favour of a more rational kind. the need to eat in massive groups, all at once, will disappear for the better part of the year. it’s slow, and that’s boring, but it’s necessary after what always goes down in december.

kitchens are dangerous

i’ve never been much of a cutter. instead, i burn myself. this is my way of getting to know the physical space of a restaurant kitchen: i bumble about, sentimentally clinging onto old habits and previously enjoyed repetitive motions, occasionally brushing against something very hot. it’s a bizarre way, but it is my way. i’m six days deep into my new position in a different kitchen, and i think i may have burned myself on enough things to have a good idea of where i’m not supposed to go. everything is different in a new kitchen. it takes no time at all to realize just how much of a robot you’ve become, even after a few short months in another space. the pans, for example, are a little more rustic, and so they don’t respond the same way to the previously prescribed flick of the wrist as they did in my former kitchen home. as a result, i often find my whites not so white, speckled with errant sauce that is initially quite hot. i think the moment all this accidental touching of hot things stops, i won’t be the new guy anymore.

Accent theme by Handsome Code

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